Weeds are tricky plants, aren’t they? Even when you pull them out of your lawn or garden beds by the root, they seem to find a way back. This is because many weeds are able to regrow from root, stem, and rhizome pieces. They can also develop seeds even after they’re pulled. Knowing which weeds you’re pulling is an advantage, so you can research the best ways to prevent the growth of a particular plant. Of course, the best way to avoid this problem in the first place is to stop weeds from growing as early in the season as possible. So you’ve gone to the trouble to pull invasive plants from your yard—now what? Here are five things to do with weeds after they’re out of the ground.
I’ve been battling weeds in my backyard for years, and let me tell you, it’s a never-ending task. One thing I’ve learned is that identifying the weed can make a huge difference. For example, I once spent hours pulling what I thought was harmless clover, only to find out it was oxalis, which spreads like wildfire if you don’t catch it early. The University of California’s agriculture department notes that some weeds, like crabgrass, can produce up to 150,000 seeds per plant, so early action is key. If you’re not sure what’s growing, snap a photo and check with a local extension service or use a plant ID app. Trust me, it saves headaches later.
1. Throw Them Away
Keeping pulled weeds on your property is a bad idea because they can still spread their seeds and regrow. It’s easy enough to stop this from happening: Simply stuff the weeds into a garbage bag and discard them with your trash. Adding a little water to this bag and leaving it in the sun solarizes the weeds, essentially turning them into slime. When it comes to noxious weeds, trashing them is one of the best options. Certain noxious weeds, like tansy ragwort, spread seeds in the air as they burn, and seeds from weeds like scotch broom can germinate decades after they’re buried.
I’ve tried the trash bag trick, and it works like a charm, especially for nasty weeds like bindweed that seem to grow back no matter what. The solarizing part is key—leaving the bag in the sun for a couple of days really breaks them down. Just be careful not to let the bag sit too long near your garden, or you might accidentally create a moist environment for seeds to sprout. Also, check your local regulations; some areas have specific rules about disposing of invasive plants to prevent them from spreading to landfills or beyond. For instance, in my area, we’re advised to double-bag noxious weeds to ensure they don’t escape during pickup.
2. Compost Them
A rule of thumb for composting is to not put anything in your compost bin that you don’t want growing in your garden. You may think this disqualifies weeds from the compost bin, but that’s not the case. Try to pull weeds and compost them before they go to seed; otherwise, dry out the weeds or create a hot compost pile to destroy the seeds. Your hot compost pile must reach temperatures of 130 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for three days to effectively destroy the seeds. Another option is to boil the weeds before adding them to a compost pile. Some municipalities have yard waste sections at transfer stations. At these facilities, plant material is professionally composted at a high temperature to kill off any seeds.
Composting weeds is one of those things that sounds risky, but it’s doable if you’re careful. I’ve got a small compost pile in my backyard, and I’m paranoid about weed seeds sneaking in. So, I make sure to pull weeds early, before they flower, and I check the pile’s temperature with a compost thermometer—aiming for that 130-degree sweet spot. If you’re not sure your pile is hot enough, boiling the weeds first is a solid backup plan. It’s a bit of extra work, but it’s worth it to avoid spreading dandelion seeds everywhere. Also, if you’re near a municipal yard waste facility, it’s often easier to let them handle the heavy lifting, as their industrial composters can hit temperatures way higher than my backyard setup.
3. Add the Weeds to a Salad
There are plenty of edible weeds around us that can be used in salads, sandwiches, made into tea, and used in other culinary endeavors. It’s safe to eat weeds if you’re 100 percent sure of what they are, and you know that they are not toxic or grown in toxic conditions. Dandelions are common in many yards. These weeds are packed with vitamins A, B, C, and D, and also potassium, iron, and zinc. According to Mount Sinai, there are several ways dandelions may benefit your health. Other edible weeds that may be growing in your garden include garlic mustard, chickweed, purslane, wood sorrel, and more.
I was skeptical about eating weeds at first, but after trying dandelion greens in a salad, I’m hooked. They’re peppery, kind of like arugula, and free! Just make sure you’re picking from a spot that hasn’t been sprayed with pesticides—my neighbor learned that the hard way. If you’re new to this, start with dandelions since they’re easy to identify. I like to mix the young leaves with spinach and a light vinaigrette to balance the bitterness. A quick tip: soak them in cold water for 10 minutes to mellow the flavor. Also, purslane is another favorite; it’s got a slight crunch and is loaded with omega-3s, which is rare for a plant. Always double-check with a guidebook or expert if you’re unsure—nobody wants a salad that sends them to the ER.
4. Create a Dedicated Weed Pile
Another reliable method of weed control is to make a space for them where they’re unlikely to take root. Remove any flowering or seeding tops and toss those in the trash. Place the remaining part of the weed on a tarp, a gravel area, or even hard-packed soil after they’re pulled. Cover the pile with a tarp to help the weeds dry out (or turn to mush if they’re wet), which leads to less material to have to discard, compost, or burn.
This method is my go-to when I’m too lazy to deal with weeds right away. I’ve got a corner of my yard with an old tarp where I pile everything up. The trick is to make sure you’re not leaving any seed heads in there—those go straight to the trash. I’ve noticed that covering the pile with a dark tarp speeds up the drying process, especially in summer heat, and it keeps things contained. If you’re short on space, a gravel patch works just as well; just don’t let the pile sit too long or you’ll end up with a soggy mess. It’s a low-effort way to manage weeds without worrying about them sneaking back into your garden.
5. Burn Them
Because weed refuse can cause new invasions or reinfest the existing area, consider putting weeds into a fire pit, at a controlled burn. These brush piles need to follow local safety regulations and restrictions, which may require a burn permit in certain locales. Weeds are often fine to burn but before you set them ablaze, make sure you know exactly which plants you’re burning. Certain invasive species, like poison ivy, poison oak, or poison sumac contain irritant oils that release fumes into the air. Burn them, and you may experience some unpleasant respiratory issues.
Burning weeds can feel satisfying, like you’re finally winning the war, but it’s not something to do carelessly. I tried it once with a small fire pit, but I didn’t realize some of the weeds were poison ivy—big mistake. My eyes were watering for days. Always double-check what you’re burning, and if you’re in a dry area, check for burn bans first. In my town, you need a permit for anything bigger than a small fire pit, and it’s only allowed certain months. If you’re going this route, keep a hose nearby and burn in small batches to stay safe. It’s effective, but only if you’re smart about it.