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Q: We painted our bathroom a few months ago and are already noticing areas where it’s peeling. How can we fix this—and prevent it from happening when we tackle the bedroom?
A: When a recent paint job starts looking old before its time, various culprits may be to blame: Usually, unsightly peeling, cracking, and flaking occur when the surface hadn’t been cleaned, prepped, or primed properly. It’s also possible that you didn’t allow adequate drying time between coats, which can cause severe cracking known as “alligatoring.” Or perhaps that bargain brand you bought wasn’t such a bargain: Poor-quality paint tends to be less adhesive and flexible, and therefore notoriously prone to peeling. Plus, this being a bathroom, moisture—which can impair paint’s adhesive properties—might have contributed to the problem. Fortunately, you caught it early, so you can probably do a patch job rather than repaint entire walls. The steps below outline precisely how to go about fixing peeling paint. But be forewarned: It’s crucial that you get your surfaces in shape and use the appropriate product to ensure smooth, long-lasting results in your bathroom fixes as well as the fresh paint job in your bedroom.
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I’ve seen this issue pop up in my own home, especially in high-humidity areas like bathrooms. One thing to consider is that moisture doesn’t just come from showers; even poor ventilation can trap humidity and wreak havoc on your paint. A study from the National Association of Home Builders suggests that bathrooms can have humidity levels as high as 70% after a shower, which is a prime culprit for peeling paint if not addressed. To prevent this in your bedroom, invest in a good primer and make sure the room is well-ventilated during and after painting. I also recommend checking the paint can’s label for its recommended drying time—rushing it can lead to those alligator cracks, and trust me, they’re not pretty!
STEP 1: Purge the peeling.
Photo: fotosearch.com
Before you begin, it’s a good idea to check for a leaky roof or plumbing concern that may have contributed to the peeling in the bathroom and could wreak havoc with your repair attempts. Once you get that squared away, get cracking on those cracks! Protect the floor with a drop cloth, and have a receptacle handy to catch the refuse. Gear up with goggles and a face mask, because tiny flakes of paint are sure to go flying. Then—using a putty knife, wire brush, or paint scraper—carefully remove all the chipped or peeling paint from the walls and ceiling.
A quick tip from my own trial and error: don’t skip the leak check! I once spent hours fixing peeling paint in a bathroom only to find out a small pipe leak was the real issue. If you’re not sure how to spot leaks, look for water stains or soft spots in the drywall. Also, when scraping, go slow to avoid gouging the wall—it’s tempting to rush, but patience here saves you more work later. For safety, especially in older homes, test for lead paint before scraping, as it can be hazardous if disturbed. You can grab a lead test kit at most hardware stores for about $10-$15, which is a small price to pay for peace of mind.
STEP 2: Prep the surface.
Using a putty knife, apply quick-setting patching compound in a thin, even layer to fill any cracks or holes. Let dry thoroughly, repeat if necessary, and then allow to dry overnight. Next, sand the area until it’s smooth and blends in with the rest of the wall. Use very fine grit sandpaper or for easy cleanup, a shop vac with a sander attachment. Feel with your fingers for any ridges or uneven spots you may have missed. Finally, clean the area with a damp sponge, wipe again with a dry cloth, and let dry completely. (Remember: You don’t want any lingering moisture when you begin to prime and paint.)
Here’s something I learned the hard way: don’t skimp on sanding. A smooth surface is critical for a seamless finish, and rough patches will show through your paint like a bad secret. If you’re dealing with a larger area, a sanding block can make the job easier on your hands. Also, consider the patching compound’s drying time—quick-setting ones can be ready in as little as 30 minutes, but I’d still give it a few hours to be safe. For bathrooms, where moisture is a constant battle, I’ve found that adding a dehumidifier during the drying process helps keep things bone-dry, reducing the risk of future peeling.
STEP 3: Take time to prime.
There are excellent paints on the market with built-in primer, but as you’ve already experienced a peeling predicament in the bathroom, go the extra mile and use an oil-based primer with stain-blocking properties to gain an extra edge against humidity. This kind of primer also guards against mildew and water marks. KILZ (view on Amazon) and Zinsser (view on Amazon) have long been considered the best oil-based, stain-blocking primers available.
Priming might feel like an extra step, but it’s a game-changer, especially in humid rooms. Oil-based primers like KILZ or Zinsser create a tough barrier that latex primers often can’t match in wet environments. I once skipped this step in a laundry room, thinking a paint-primer combo would do the trick, and ended up with peeling again within a year. A pro painter I know swears by applying two thin coats of primer for extra protection in bathrooms—it’s overkill for some, but it can extend your paint job’s life by years. Expect to spend about $20-$30 per gallon for a quality primer, but it’s worth every penny for the durability it adds.
STEP 4: Repaint the patches.
Once the primer is dry, you’re ready to repaint. If you’ve got enough paint left over from the original job, great; if not, see if you can purchase a sample can. Use a bristle or sponge brush (or a roller for large areas), starting inside the patched areas and feathering outward. Err on the side of stingy. You never want to glop paint on, and that’s especially important with a retouch job. Let dry, and wait 24 hours before using the shower in this bathroom.
Feathering is key here—blend the new paint into the old by lightly brushing outward to avoid obvious lines. I’ve found that a small foam roller works wonders for larger patches, giving a smoother finish than a brush. If you’re matching paint, take a chip to the store for a precise color match; most hardware stores can scan it for you. Also, consider a bathroom-specific paint with mildew resistance for extra protection—brands like Behr or Sherwin-Williams have solid options that run about $40-$50 a gallon. And don’t rush the drying; I usually wait a full day before exposing the area to steam, just to be safe.
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Kitchen renovations are a hot topic, but they can also teach us about prep work for painting. Just like a kitchen needs a solid plan to stay on budget, your paint job needs proper prep to last. I recently helped a friend plan a kitchen redo, and we found that setting aside 10-15% of the budget for unexpected fixes (like plumbing or electrical) mirrors the need to budget time and money for paint prep. For instance, fixing peeling paint might cost you $50-$100 in materials, but skipping steps could lead to pricier repairs down the road. Always plan for the long haul!