In contrast to a regular paint job, whitewashing brightens the look of wood surfaces while allowing their natural grain to show through. The light color and pleasingly imperfect aesthetic of whitewashing makes rooms appear more comfortably lived-in, even friendlier—making it popular in modern farmhouse, charming cottage, and relaxed beach interior schemes. Although its results are out of the ordinary, whitewashing differs only slightly from run-of-the-mill painting. Here’s how it’s done!
I’ve always loved how whitewashing gives wood that soft, weathered vibe—like it’s been part of a cozy home for years. It’s perfect for adding character without hiding the wood’s natural beauty. Plus, it’s a budget-friendly way to refresh old furniture or walls. Based on my experience, the key is patience and testing your mix first, as the look can vary depending on the wood type and paint ratio.
Tools & Materials
Bobvila.com may earn a commission from purchases made through these links.
- Power sander
- Broom
- Vacuum
- Microfiber cloth
- White paint
- Paint roller
- Angled sash paint brush
- 5-gallon bucket
- Sandpaper
- Turpentine
- Polyurethane sealer
Before diving in, make sure you’ve got all your tools ready. I’d add that a good-quality angled sash brush is a game-changer for getting into tight corners, especially on furniture or detailed paneling. If you’re on a budget, you can skip the power sander and go manual, but trust me, it’s worth renting one if you’re tackling a big surface like a wall or floor. Also, consider investing in a low-odor polyurethane sealer—your nose will thank you! Based on a quick check at home improvement stores, you can expect to spend around $50-$100 on supplies for a medium-sized project, depending on the quality of paint and sealer you choose.
Whitewashing Wood in 5 Steps
This project is easiest to undertake outdoors on a fine day—the fumes from the paint and poly won’t be as bad, and you won’t have to vacuum up sawdust resulting from sanding.
Doing this outside is a lifesaver, especially if you’re sensitive to paint fumes like I am. If you’re stuck indoors, crack a window and use a fan to keep the air moving. Also, lay down a drop cloth to catch the dust—it’ll save you cleanup time later.
Step 1: Remove the existing finish from the wood.
Whitewashing works best on raw wood. That being the case, it’s critical that you remove as much of any existing finish—be it paint, stain, or varnish—as possible. Do so by thoroughly sanding the surface you intend to whitewash. Sanding by hand is one option, but it’s far quicker and easier to opt for a power sander. (If you don’t own one, you can rent one from your local home improvement center.) Before continuing on to the next step, it’s important to clear all sawdust and debris created in the course of sanding. Sweep or vacuum the area, if appropriate; otherwise, use a damp cloth to wipe the surface clean.
Sanding is the make-or-break step here. I’ve found that starting with a coarse 80-grit sandpaper and moving to a finer 120-grit gets the smoothest results. If you’re dealing with stubborn varnish, you might need a chemical stripper first, but that’s rare. A pro tip: check the wood’s texture after sanding. If it feels too smooth, the whitewash might not stick as well, so don’t overdo it. According to woodworking experts, raw wood absorbs paint better because its porous surface allows the diluted paint to seep in naturally, creating that signature translucent look.
Step 2: Dilute the white paint.
Now formulate the whitewash. Rest assured there’s no complicated recipe to follow; rather, making whitewash is a simple matter of diluting regular white paint. Dilute water-based white paint with water, and dilute oil-based white paint with turpentine or paint thinner. The precise ratio of paint to thinner depends on the look you wish to achieve: For thicker coverage, use a mixture of two parts paint to one part thinner. Reverse that ratio if you’d prefer a thinner application. Before you whitewash the entire surface, first experiment with the mixture in an inconspicuous spot. Be sure you like the way that it looks before committing. After all, it’s easy to add coverage but more challenging to take it away.
I can’t stress enough how important that test spot is. I once skipped it and ended up with a table that looked more painted than whitewashed—not the vibe I was going for! If you’re aiming for a subtle, beachy look, go heavy on the thinner (1:2 ratio). For a bolder, farmhouse style, stick with the 2:1 mix. A little science here: diluting the paint reduces its opacity, letting the wood’s grain show through while still adding a soft white hue. If you’re using water-based paint, you can tweak the mix as you go since it’s forgiving and cleans up easily with soap and water.
Step 3: Apply the whitewash with a paintbrush.
Load your paintbrush or roller, and apply the white color on in long strokes following the direction of the wood grain. The finish dries quickly, so it’s wise to complete one small section at a time. Should you prefer the wood grain to show through more than it does, use a cloth to wipe away excess whitewash before it has the chance to dry completely. Doing this should result in an attractive, washed-out look.
Following the grain is key to that natural, organic feel. I like using a brush for smaller projects like furniture because it gives me more control, but a roller’s great for big surfaces like walls. If you’re wiping excess, keep a stack of clean microfiber cloths handy—old T-shirts work in a pinch, too. A quick tip: work in good lighting so you can see how the whitewash settles. Some woods, like oak, soak up more paint, so you might need to wipe more aggressively to get that translucent effect.
Step 4: Let the whitewash dry between coats, and sand if needed.
After the first coat has dried completely, then determine whether a second or third coat is needed. So long as the whitewash is dry (allow several hours), you can use fine-grit sandpaper to play down any coverage that you think seems thicker than ideal.
Patience is your friend here. I’ve rushed this step before and ended up with a patchy finish because the paint wasn’t fully dry. Give it at least 4-6 hours, depending on humidity—check the paint can for specifics. If you’re adding another coat, lightly sand with 220-grit paper to smooth out any clumps. Fun fact: multiple thin coats often look better than one heavy one because they build up the color gradually, giving you more control over the final look.
Step 5: Seal the whitewashing with clear polyurethane.
Bring the project to completion by coating it with a clear polyurethane sealer, applied with a brush as evenly as possible over the surface. Once sealed, your whitewashing should look fresh for years to come.
Sealing is non-negotiable if you want your whitewash to last. I’ve used both matte and satin polyurethane, and matte tends to keep that rustic charm better. Apply thin, even coats to avoid streaks, and let it dry fully—usually 24 hours—before using the surface. Polyurethane not only protects against scratches and moisture but also locks in the whitewash so it doesn’t fade. For high-traffic areas like floors, consider a second coat for extra durability. A gallon of polyurethane typically costs $20-$40 and covers about 400 square feet, so plan accordingly.
Why Choose Whitewashing?
Whitewashing’s popularity in styles like modern farmhouse and coastal decor comes from its ability to make spaces feel airy and inviting. It’s also a forgiving technique—perfect for DIYers who want a polished look without being a perfectionist. Plus, it’s versatile; you can whitewash anything from furniture to walls to fences. If you’re looking to save money, this project is a win—refreshing a piece of furniture might cost you under $30 in materials if you already have some basic tools.