Q: I recently moved into a new house and want to start a garden. When browsing plants at my local nursery, I noticed that some were marked ¡°annual plants¡± and others, ¡°perennial plants.¡± I understand that an annual plant dies at the end of every growing season and has to be replanted the following year, but what is a perennial?
A: You have caught on to the difference between annual and perennial plants! While annuals live for just one growing season, perennials are plants that can survive in the garden for at least two growing seasons. They die back in the winter and then, as if by magic, they return lush and renewed, ready for another go at life. These plants manage to survive because their roots can weather the winter climate in their hardiness zones.
A garden filled with perennial plants is a lot less work than one that’s mostly annuals. While there’s still work to be done in a perennial garden¡ªpruning and weeding, for example¡ªthere’s no need to replant everything each year. (Replanting annuals every year can get expensive, too.) While buying and planting perennials can be more of an investment at the outset, many are also easy to divide, which makes it fun to share free plants with neighbors and friends. Read on to learn more about exactly what is a perennial plant, and how to incorporate these plants into your garden.
Additional Insights: I’ve found that perennials are a game-changer for new gardeners like yourself because they offer a sense of continuity. Last year, I planted some daylilies, and seeing them pop back up this spring felt like a little gift from past me! Beyond the emotional payoff, perennials can save you money over time. For instance, a single perennial plant might cost $10-$20 upfront, but annuals, which you’d need to repurchase yearly, can add up to $50 or more per season for a small garden bed. Plus, dividing perennials every few years not only keeps them healthy but also gives you free plants to expand your garden or swap with friends. To get started, I’d suggest picking a mix of perennials suited to your region¡ªcheck with your local nursery for native options, as they’re often more resilient and attract pollinators like bees, which are vital for about 35% of global food crops, according to pollinator research.
A perennial is a sturdy plant that blooms once per year.
Unlike many annuals, some of which can bloom all season long, perennials bloom once a year¡ªmany, at specific times of the year. Thanks to their vibrant foliage, these plants still make attractive contributions to gardens even outside of their flowering periods.
- May, spring blooms: peony, oriental poppy
- June, early summer blooms: astilbe, purple coneflower
- July, summer blooms: hosta, Russian sage, garden phlox, butterfly weed
- August, late summer blooms: black-eyed Susan, garden mum
The secret to a stunning perennial garden is to choose varieties that bloom at different times, which ensures that your yard will pop with color all spring and summer, and pollinators and other garden critters will have continual access to food. Don’t be disappointed if your newly planted perennials don’t bloom right away, though. You might need to wait a year or two to see them in their full glory.
Additional Insights: I love how perennials can turn your garden into a living calendar! For example, my peonies always signal the start of spring, while my black-eyed Susans keep the show going into late summer. To maximize that color explosion, try companion planting¡ªlike pairing early-blooming peonies with later-blooming coneflowers. This not only keeps your garden vibrant but also supports local ecosystems. Did you know that pollinators, like butterflies, contribute to over 75% of flowering plants’ reproduction? Choosing perennials with staggered bloom times ensures they’ve got food all season. If you’re impatient for blooms, ask your nursery about ¡°first-year flowering¡± perennials¡ªsome newer cultivars are bred to bloom sooner, though they might cost a bit more, around $15-$25 per plant.
Learn your hardiness zone before selecting perennial plants for your yard.
Perennials don’t last forever, but many can hang on for years if properly cared for. The other thing to remember is that not all perennial plants can survive the winter in every USDA hardiness zone, which is why it’s important to know which zone you live in and select plants accordingly. Plants that may be perennial further south may not survive in the blustery northeast. Dahlias, for instance, are perennial in the southern U.S. but won’t last the winter further north. If you’re buying a perennial plant from a nursery, check its label to confirm whether it’s perennial in your zone.
It’s important to water newly planted perennials deeply and regularly to help them establish a robust root system. Keeping out weeds is also essential to their well-being. Fertilizing isn’t too big a worry, though. Most people are more likely to overfertilize their perennials, which can keep them from producing flowers.
Additional Insights: Figuring out your USDA hardiness zone was a lightbulb moment for me when I started gardening¡ªit’s like a cheat code for picking plants! You can find your zone on the USDA’s website by entering your zip code, and it’ll tell you the average low temperatures for your area. For example, dahlias thrive in zones 8-10 but struggle in my zone 5 garden unless I dig up the tubers each fall, which is honestly a bit of a hassle. To avoid disappointment, I stick to zone-appropriate plants like coneflowers, which are tough as nails. A pro tip: water your new perennials about 1-2 inches per week for the first season, ideally with a soaker hose to target the roots. Overfertilizing is a real rookie mistake¡ªtoo much nitrogen can make plants leafy but flowerless, so I use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer sparingly, maybe once in spring.
Plant perennials where they’ll thrive.
Though some perennials live for just 3 to 5 years, many can live much longer. The key to sustaining these come-back-again plants is to plant them where they are most likely to thrive. While perennials can be hardier than their annual cousins, you’ll still need to choose a site that accommodates each plant’s needs. Lots of perennials are happy in partial shade¡ªhostas, for example, are excellent shade plants for the garden¡ªbut some require plenty of sun. Examples of sun-loving perennials include peonies, roses, and Russian sage.
Additional Insights: I learned the hard way that planting perennials in the wrong spot is like setting them up for failure. My first hosta went into a sunny corner and looked miserable until I moved it to a shady spot under a tree¡ªnow it’s thriving! Before planting, spend a day observing your yard’s light patterns. Most sun-loving perennials need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, while shade lovers like hostas can get by with 2-4 hours. Soil matters too¡ªtest your soil’s pH (kits are cheap, about $10 at garden centers) because plants like peonies prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.5-7). If your soil’s off, you can amend it with compost, which costs around $5 per bag and boosts drainage and nutrients.
Most types of perennials must be pruned before they can regrow.
To make way for new growth, many perennials require yearly pruning. After the plant has finished blooming, cut it back to ground level. At the end of the season, get rid of dead foliage and broken twigs, and protect roots from freeze-and-thaw cycles by adding mulch around the base of the plants.
When a perennial plant is well established, it’s time to divide it. Dividing prevents overcrowding and controls plant growth, and is also a way to give and receive free plants to expand your garden. Dividing is best done when the plant isn’t actively flowering.
To divide a perennial plant, follow these steps:
- Dig up the plant that you wish to split.
- Lift it from the hole and gently wipe away dirt clumped onto the roots.
- Carefully separate the plant by teasing the roots apart. Make sure that each divided portion has at least three shoots and a substantial root system.
- Replant the new planting in a new area, and keep it well watered.
Additional Insights: Pruning perennials feels intimidating at first, but it’s like giving your plants a fresh start. I usually wait until after the first frost to cut back my hostas and coneflowers¡ªit’s less messy, and the dead foliage can even provide winter habitat for beneficial insects. For mulch, I use shredded bark, which costs about $4 per cubic foot and helps keep soil temperatures stable. When dividing, I’ve found early spring or fall works best for most perennials, as the cooler temps reduce plant stress. Dividing my overgrown daylilies last year gave me three new plants for free, which I traded with a neighbor for some iris¡ªsuch a win! Just make sure your tools are sharp and clean to avoid spreading disease.
Perennial plants are prone to pest infestation and diseases.
Though perennials are hardy, they’re still susceptible to weed competition and pests. The problem is that you can’t protect perennials from pests by rotating them, as you would annual edibles such as tomatoes and peppers. Instead, it’s crucial to pick perennial cultivars that are resistant to disease and pests. Opting for native varieties can also reduce the chances that your perennials are targeted by feasting insects. Cleaning up plant matter at the end of the season can also prevent foliar diseases from returning next season.
Additional Insights: Pests can be a pain, but I’ve had good luck keeping them at bay by choosing native perennials like purple coneflower, which seem to shrug off bugs better than exotic varieties. For instance, native plants are often 30-50% less likely to suffer severe pest damage, according to local extension services I’ve checked. I also sprinkle diatomaceous earth around my plants¡ªit’s a natural powder that costs about $10 for a big bag and deters slugs without chemicals. Cleaning up dead leaves in fall is a must; I skipped it one year, and powdery mildew hit my phlox hard the next season. Companion planting with pest-repelling herbs like lavender near your perennials can also help, and it smells amazing!
Our Best Advice for Beginner Gardeners
We’ll help you set up your first garden¡ªwhether that’s a few pots on your patio, a raised bed, or an in-ground plot out back¡ªand select the right plants for your soil and region.
Additional Insights: Starting a garden can feel overwhelming, but my biggest tip is to start small¡ªmaybe a 4×4-foot bed or a few pots. I began with a tiny patio garden, and it taught me so much about what grows well in my area. Visit your local extension office or nursery for free advice; they often have plant lists tailored to your region. For example, native plant societies report that gardens with at least 70% native species need less water and maintenance, which is a huge time-saver. Keep a journal to track what works¡ªit’s like a love letter to your future gardening self!