Discovering dandelions, clover, crabgrass, lamb’s-quarters, and other weeds growing on your lawn or garden is frustrating. Finding a safe and natural way to kill weeds can take up a lot of your time, especially when it seems like the weeds keep coming back a few days or weeks later. The next time you see a weed growing on your lawn, take a close look to identify what it is before simply pulling it out of the ground. Believe it or not, the types of weeds growing on your grass or in your garden can be indicative about the soil they’re growing in. You can use this information to improve the soil conditions for the grass and other plants that you want to continue to grow while also fending off the weeds and helping prevent them from returning.
I’ve spent countless weekends battling weeds in my own yard, and it’s amazing how much you can learn just by paying attention to what’s popping up. For example, I noticed that certain weeds kept showing up in the same spot, which got me curious about what my soil was trying to tell me. By identifying the weeds and tweaking the soil conditions, I’ve not only reduced the weed problem but also helped my grass thrive. A good starting point is to grab a weed identification guide—many local extension services offer free ones online. This small step can save you a ton of guesswork and help you target the root cause, literally!
Evidence of Compacted Soil
There are several weeds that may indicate that your soil is heavy and compacted. A few of these include chickweed, plantain, prostrate spurge, dandelion, and mouse-ear chickweed. If you find any of these weeds on your lawn, you’ll want to take steps to break up the soil and improve its drainage. Aerating the lawn is the best way to accomplish this goal. Aeration should be performed in the fall or spring, while the grass is actively growing. After aeration, finish up by overseeding the lawn to make the grass denser.
Compacted soil is a real pain—it’s like the ground is suffocating your plants. I learned this the hard way when I kept finding plantain all over my lawn. Aeration made a huge difference, but here’s a tip: rent a core aerator from a local hardware store for about $50-$80 a day, depending on your area. It’s a workout, but it’s worth it. Studies from agricultural extensions show that aeration can improve soil porosity by up to 20%, allowing water and nutrients to reach plant roots more effectively. If you’re on a budget, you can also try a manual aerator for smaller patches—it’s slower but still gets the job done. After aerating, I spread a thin layer of compost before overseeding, which helped my lawn fill in nicely.
Evidence of Poor Drainage
Soil that is not draining properly may be covered with various types of moss. Moss is not classified as a weed, but unless you planted it specifically on your lawn, it is nevertheless an unwanted guest. Beyond the moss, there are also some weeds that can indicate that the soil is not draining properly. These include ground ivy, yellow nutsedge, common chickweed, and mouse-ear chickweed. After pulling the weeds from the soil, work to help it drain better. As mentioned above, aeration can help with drainage issues. You can also improve drainage by working grass clippings, compost, or manure into the soil. These types of organic matter will do a better job of absorbing water than standard soil.
I’ve dealt with soggy spots in my yard where moss and yellow nutsedge kept showing up, especially after heavy rain. It’s frustrating when your lawn feels like a sponge! Adding organic matter like compost is a game-changer—research suggests it can increase soil water retention by up to 15%. I usually mix in about an inch of compost across problem areas, which costs around $30 for a cubic yard at my local garden center. If drainage is a persistent issue, consider installing a French drain. It’s a bit of work, but it can redirect water away from problem areas. Also, check your downspouts—redirecting them away from your lawn can prevent water from pooling in the first place.
Evidence of Excessive Fertility
If you see dandelions, purslane, yellow woodsorrel, or henbit growing in your yard, it could be a sign that your soil is excessively fertile. This means that you’ve added too much fertilizer to the area. To remedy the situation, you’ll want to flush the soil using water. Doing so will remove some of the excess nutrients from the soil. This step should help protect any wanted plants growing in the area from the negative side effects of using too much fertilizer, including death, stunted growth, and burnt leaves.
Over-fertilizing is an easy mistake to make—I’ve been guilty of it myself, thinking more is better. Those dandelions were practically glowing in my yard! Flushing the soil with water is straightforward, but you’ll want to do it gradually to avoid waterlogging your plantsewatering. Here’s a pro tip: use a soil test kit (about $15 online) to check nutrient levels before fertilizing next time. Data from the USDA shows that over-fertilization can increase nitrogen levels by 30-50% beyond what plants need, which fuels weeds like nobody’s business. After flushing, I cut back on fertilizer and switched to a slow-release organic option, which has kept my lawn healthier without the weed explosion.
Evidence of High Acidity
Many of the same weeds that can alert you to low fertility soil can also help you diagnose a high acidity problem in your lawn or garden. These include red sorrel, crabgrass, plantain, and prostrate knotweed. If you spot any of these weeds, take a sample of the soil and test the pH to confirm that it is too acidic (the ideal soil pH level for most plants is between 6.0 and 7.0). If indeed the soil is too acidic, mix in some calcium carbonate (commonly called lime) to help neutralize the pH. You’ll need between 7 and 8 pounds of lime for each 100 square feet of soil to bring the pH up one point. Retest the pH after the lime has had a chance to work.
Crabgrass was my wake-up call to test my soil’s pH, and sure enough, it was way too acidic—around 5.5. Adding lime was a game-changer, but don’t expect instant results; it can take a few months to fully adjust the pH. A 50-pound bag of lime costs about $10-$15 and covers roughly 600 square feet. Soil scientists note that maintaining a pH of 6.0-7.0 can boost grass growth by 25% while discouraging acid-loving weeds. I also started mulching my grass clippings to add organic matter, which helps stabilize pH over time. Just make sure to retest every few months to avoid overcorrecting!
Evidence of Dry Soil
If your soil is too dry, you might find red sorrel, prostrate spurge, or black medic weeds growing on your property. Use the discovery of these weeds as a call to action to moisten your soil during times of low rainfall. When watering the grass, it is important to apply enough water to help your plants build a deep and sturdy root system. Without enough water, the root system will remain shallow, leaving the grass more vulnerable to the next drought.
Dry soil is a real challenge in my area, especially during summer dry spells when I spotted black medic everywhere. Deep watering—about an inch per week—makes a big difference. Irrigation studies show that consistent watering can increase root depth by up to 40%, making your lawn more resilient. I use a simple sprinkler system, which costs about $20-$30 for a decent one. If you’re in a drought-prone region, consider drought-tolerant grasses like tall fescue, which I switched to in parts of my yard. It’s saved me a lot of water and headaches!
Evidence of Insufficient Sunlight
When there isn’t enough sunlight hitting turfgrass and other types of grass, weeds such as ground ivy, common chickweed, and mouse-ear chickweed may start to grow. If possible, you’ll want to take measures to allow more sunlight through to the grass by pruning some of the shrubs or trees that are producing the shade. If pruning isn’t possible or won’t effectively solve the problem, you might want to look into replacing the turfgrass with another type of grass or ground cover that grows better in the shade. A few to look into include fescue grass, zoysia grass, sweet woodruff, and bunchberry.
Shade was a big issue in my backyard where ground ivy kept creeping in under some old trees. Pruning helped a bit, but I ended up switching to fine fescue in the shadiest spots—it’s been a lifesaver. Shade-tolerant ground covers like sweet woodruff can cost about $10 per plant but spread nicely over time. Research from turfgrass studies shows that shade reduces photosynthesis in standard grasses by up to 50%, so choosing the right plant is key. If you’re pruning, do it in late winter before the growing season to avoid stressing the trees. It’s a bit of trial and error, but it pays off!
Our Best Advice for Beginner Gardeners
We’ll help you set up your first garden—whether that’s a few pots on your patio, a raised bed, or an in-ground plot out back—and select the right plants for your soil and region.
Starting a garden can feel overwhelming, but it’s so rewarding once you get the hang of it. My first garden was just a few pots on my deck, and I wish I’d known to test my soil right away—it would’ve saved me from a lot of trial and error. Local extension services often offer soil testing for $10-$20, and it’s worth every penny to know exactly what you’re working with. I also recommend starting small with easy plants like herbs or marigolds, which are forgiving and boost your confidence. Join a local gardening group for tips—mine gave me great advice on regional plants that thrive without much fuss.