Native plants are a must for a pollinator habitat, and milkweed is no exception. Although tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) is available at many garden centers, it is not native to the United States and is an inferior source of food and forage for monarch butterflies. Choose a variety of native milkweed plants that are suited to your region and climate. The National Wildlife Federation has an excellent resource that matches pollinator plants by zip code. A popular combination of common milkweed plants that are easy to find and buy are:
- Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
- Swamp milkweed or rose milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
- Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca)
You can either purchase seeds or plugs (seedlings) from a reputable native plant nursery or garden center. Plugs may be easier to start with, but if you have a green thumb, you can save money by growing your plants from seed. Be aware that most milkweed seeds need cold stratification before they can germinate.
When I started my own pollinator garden, I was tempted by the bright colors of tropical milkweed at my local nursery, but I learned it can mess with monarch migration patterns by blooming too long. Instead, I went with butterfly weed and swamp milkweed, which I found through a local native plant sale. The National Wildlife Federation’s zip code tool was a lifesaver for picking varieties that thrive in my area. If you’re starting from seed, cold stratification is key—popping seeds in the fridge for a month mimics winter conditions and boosts germination rates. I’ve had great success with this method, and it’s satisfying to see those tiny sprouts pop up in spring. For beginners, plugs are less fuss, but seeds are budget-friendly if you’re patient. Just check your local climate—swamp milkweed loves wetter soils, while butterfly weed thrives in drier spots.
Help Your Milkweed Thrive
Milkweed needs what most plants need to thrive: well-drained soil in full sun with adequate water. Native milkweeds don’t generally do well in containers, as they have very long taproots. Dr. Ellis recommends planting your milkweed in clusters of 3 to 10 plants and choosing a couple of locations in your yard to see where the plants flourish. Place your plants in native soil, with no amendments such as fertilizer. Once milkweed is established, it requires little care and should only need watering in very hot weather or in times of drought. Each species of milkweed has its own characteristics and preferred growing conditions, so be sure to follow the nursery’s planting instructions or the instructions on the seed packet. Be aware that common milkweed, a favorite milkweed species of the monarch butterfly, will spread deep rhizomes once it’s established and can quickly get out of hand. It’s best to plant common milkweed where there’s room for it to spread.
I’ve found that spacing milkweed in small clusters, like Dr. Ellis suggests, really helps them stand out and attract monarchs. In my garden, I noticed common milkweed started taking over after a couple of years, so I now keep it in a corner where it can spread without crowding out other plants. If you’re tight on space, go for butterfly weed—it’s less aggressive. One tip: don’t overwater after they’re established. I made that mistake early on and nearly drowned my swamp milkweed! Also, check your soil drainage—milkweed hates soggy roots. If you’re in a dry region, a drip irrigation system can be a low-cost way to keep them hydrated during heatwaves, costing around $20-$50 for a basic setup. This small investment saves time and ensures your plants stay healthy without much fuss.
Use Companion Plants to Create a Habitat
Create a complete monarch habitat by combining your milkweed with companion plants that provide forage and shelter for adult butterflies. Choose native flowering plants with varying bloom times to ensure nectar is available to adults throughout the growing season. It’s especially important to have late-blooming plants as rich nectar sources for adult monarchs just before they begin their migration. Prairie Moon Nursery sells a “Monarch Power Pack” that contains seeds of common milkweed, meadow blazing star, and showy goldenrod, the latter two of which are late bloomers. Joe Pye weed is another excellent late-season food source for monarchs and other butterflies.
Adding companion plants like meadow blazing star and Joe Pye weed turned my garden into a butterfly hotspot. Last summer, I watched monarchs flit between my milkweed and goldenrod—it was like a little nature show in my backyard. To keep costs down, I bought a seed mix for about $15, which covered a 50-square-foot area. The key is mixing early bloomers like coneflowers with late bloomers like goldenrod to keep nectar flowing from spring to fall. Research shows monarchs need about 30-50 nectar plants per garden to support their migration, so aim for diversity. If you’re short on space, even a few pots with alyssum or zinnias can help. Just make sure they’re native to your area to avoid introducing invasive species.
Register Your Garden as a Monarch Waystation
The Monarch Waystation Program was created by Monarch Watch, an education and research program based at the University of Kansas. Monarch-lovers can have their properties certified as a Monarch Waystation through the program. In order for a garden or property to be certified, it must be a complete habitat, with larval host plants and nectar plants for forage. Once accepted, your habitat is included in the online Monarch Waystation Registry and you are awarded a certificate with your name and Monarch Waystation ID number. You can also purchase a sign that identifies your property as an official Monarch Waystation.
Getting my garden certified as a Monarch Waystation was surprisingly easy and felt like a badge of honor. The process involves filling out a form on Monarch Watch’s website, detailing your milkweed and nectar plants. It cost me about $16 for the application fee, and the sign I bought for $20 is a great conversation starter with neighbors. Studies from Monarch Watch show over 40,000 waystations have been registered across the U.S., collectively supporting millions of monarchs. To qualify, you’ll need at least 10 milkweed plants and a mix of nectar plants—easy if you’ve followed the steps above. It’s a fun way to join a community effort and track your impact on monarch conservation.
Manage Milkweed Pests
Monarch butterflies and caterpillars aren’t the only living things that love milkweed. According to the USDA, more than 450 insects feed on common milkweed. While most of the time there’s enough forage for all, some insects are troublesome. Oleander aphids in particular are milkweed pests. Oleander aphids are bright yellow with black legs and are often seen swarming on the stems of milkweed plants. If this happens to your plants, avoid using insecticide sprays or neem oil, as they can kill or repel beneficial insects, including monarchs! If the infestation is localized on one shoot, cut it and throw it away. You can also try hosing the aphids off the plant, but be sure to check for monarch caterpillars first. One of the best ways to control aphids is through natural biological control by attracting beneficial insects that feed on aphids, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. Use companion plants with small, nectar-filled flowers to attract these insects, such as alyssum, yarrow, or dill. You can also plant nasturtiums around your milkweed as a decoy plant to attract the aphids away from the milkweed plants.
I had a run-in with oleander aphids last year, and let me tell you, they’re a pain! Hosing them off worked, but I had to be super careful not to dislodge any tiny monarch caterpillars. Planting dill nearby was a game-changer—ladybugs showed up like little superheroes. A single ladybug can eat up to 50 aphids a day, so they’re worth inviting to the party. Nasturtiums are cheap, about $2 for a seed packet, and they really do pull aphids away from your milkweed. If you go the hosing route, use a gentle spray to avoid damaging the plant. Keeping a close eye on your milkweed weekly can help you catch pest issues early before they get out of hand.
Understand Milkweed’s Properties
Milkweed plants contain cardiac glycoside compounds, which make them toxic to most insects and animals. The insects that feed on the plants, including monarch butterflies, can use this as a defense, storing the cardiac glycoside in their bodies, making them toxic to predators. Although some people choose to eat milkweed, the National Capital Poison Center strongly recommends against this, as cardiac glycosides in small amounts can cause nausea, diarrhea, weakness, and confusion, and in large amounts, can cause seizures, heart rhythm changes, respiratory paralysis, and even death. The milky sap in milkweed can also irritate the skin and eyes. Milkweed toxicity is mostly a concern for grazing animals such as sheep or cattle in areas where other sources of good forage are not available. The plant does not taste good to animals, so the risk to household pets is low. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service offers these recommendations:
- Use gloves when in the garden
- Be careful not to touch your face or eyes with your gloves
- Wash your hands thoroughly after handling milkweed plants
- Make sure children know that milkweed plants are poisonous.
I always wear gloves when handling milkweed because that sap is no joke—it got in my eye once, and it stung for hours. The toxicity is fascinating, though—monarchs use it like a chemical shield, which is why birds steer clear of them. If you’ve got kids or pets, it’s worth having a quick chat about not touching the plants. For gardeners, a pair of reusable gardening gloves costs about $10 and saves you from the sap’s irritation. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service’s tips are spot-on, and I’d add: keep a bucket of soapy water nearby to dip your hands in right after pruning. It’s a simple trick that’s saved me from accidental sap exposure more than once.
Harvest Milkweed Seeds
Harvesting milkweed seeds is a great way to contribute to the spread of milkweed and monarch butterfly nesting habitat. Allow the seed pods on your milkweed plants to mature, and collect them when they split open. Just be sure to leave at least two-thirds of the seed pods on the plants to ensure they will continue to grow and thrive. Remove the seeds from the husk and dry them well before storing them. You can package the seeds and use them as gifts to encourage others to support the monarch butterfly population. You can also donate your seeds to a local conservation organization.
Collecting milkweed seeds is oddly satisfying—like opening tiny treasure chests. I usually wait until the pods split naturally, then dry the seeds in a paper bag for a week or two. Last year, I gave seed packets as holiday gifts, and my friends loved the idea of helping monarchs. A single pod can yield 50-100 seeds, so you don’t need to harvest much to make a difference. If you’re donating to a conservation group, check with local organizations like native plant societies—they often distribute seeds for free to community gardens. Just don’t strip all the pods; leaving most behind keeps your plants healthy and ensures they’ll reseed naturally for next year.
Get Organized!
Join the ranks of monarch protectors and conservationists by getting involved in community efforts to support monarch butterflies. Many research studies rely on community science, so consider contributing your observations of monarch butterfly behavior. Consider supporting or joining a local or national monarch conservation effort, such as the National Wildlife Foundation, Save our Monarchs, or the Xerces Society. You may even choose to take part in a WWF Natural Habitat Adventure and witness the eastern monarch’s incredible migration to Mexico firsthand!
I started logging monarch sightings in my garden through a community science app, and it’s amazing how much researchers learn from everyday gardeners like us. Groups like the Xerces Society offer free webinars that taught me a ton about monarch migration patterns. If you’re up for an adventure, the WWF trip to Mexico is bucket-list worthy—seeing millions of monarchs in their winter roosts is unreal. Local conservation groups often host seed swaps or planting days, which are great for meeting other butterfly enthusiasts. I joined one last spring and came home with new plants and ideas for my garden. Getting involved feels like you’re part of something bigger, and it’s a low-cost way to make a real impact.