There are numerous benefits to planting trees in a yard. Trees help fight climate change, purify the air, improve the soil, help prevent flooding, reduce noise, absorb pollution, lower air temperature, reduce energy bills, and help sustain wildlife. Plus, studies indicate that trees have a significant impact on several aspects of human health. Planting trees in the right spot maximizes the benefits you can reap from them, and helps prevent future problems, like intrusive roots. Beyond USDA plant hardiness zone guidelines, water and light requirements, and mature size of the tree, some top considerations include aesthetics, canopy height and spread, growth rate, soil type, yard size, and so much more.
When I started planning my own backyard, I quickly realized how much thought goes into picking the perfect spot for a tree. It’s not just about digging a hole and plopping it in—there’s a science to it. For instance, the U.S. Department of Energy notes that strategically placed trees can cut cooling costs by up to 25% in some climates, which is a game-changer for summer utility bills. I’ve also learned from chatting with local arborists that picking a spot with good drainage can make or break a tree’s health, especially in areas with heavy clay soil like mine. Taking the time to map out your yard’s layout—factoring in sun patterns, existing structures, and even your neighbor’s trees—can save you headaches down the road.
1. Pick a Side
The first question landscape designer Patrick Corken with Eagle Creek Nursery & Landscape asks customers is: Will the tree be in the front or backyard? He prefers smaller trees for the front. “You don’t want to block the view of the house from the street. You want to frame the front door for optimal curb appeal.” Additionally, waterlines and electric lines are more likely to run through the front yard than the backyard. Therefore, he says: “Planting big trees in the front creates issues.” Also remember that the size of the lot determines the tree size that landscape designers recommend.
I’ve seen this play out in my neighborhood—big trees in front yards can look stunning but often end up causing trouble. For example, a friend had to deal with roots lifting their driveway because they planted a massive oak too close to the house. Corken’s advice about smaller trees in the front makes sense, especially for curb appeal. A study from the National Association of Realtors suggests that mature trees can boost property value by up to 7%, but only if they enhance the home’s appearance rather than overwhelm it. I’d also recommend checking with your utility company before planting in the front—knowing where those underground lines are can save you from costly repairs.
2. Determine Your Goals
Do you want trees for shade, privacy, a windbreak, or to frame your house? Your answer will help determine the type and number of trees to plant, and it will guide placement decisions. Corken plants shade trees off to the side to better frame the house and draw the eye to the front door. They’re easier to plant there, as well. “Pipes don’t usually run along the property lines,” he says. Small specimen trees are best planted near the front door or in small courtyards between an entry and the garage. “Curb appeal is all about the front door.”
When I was deciding what trees to plant, I had to think hard about what I wanted most—shade for my patio or privacy from the neighbor’s deck. It’s worth sitting down with a notepad and sketching out your priorities. For example, if privacy is your goal, the Arbor Day Foundation recommends evergreens like arborvitae, which can grow into a dense screen in just a few years. I’ve found that placing a couple of smaller trees near the front door not only looks inviting but also makes the yard feel more cohesive. Just be sure to double-check your property lines—planting too close to a neighbor’s boundary can spark disputes later.
3. Throw Some Shade
Lower your utility bill by planting large deciduous trees where they can provide shade during the hotter months. A tree on the west, one on the east, and a third on the north side of the house can reduce energy costs by up to 50 percent by providing shade during the summer and serving as a winter wind block. Choose the right type of tree; different types of trees have different functions. “Wispy trees don’t provide much shade,” says Felicia Clemons, ISA-certified arborist with Indiana Tree Service, Inc.
I can vouch for the shade factor—planting a maple on the west side of my house made a noticeable difference in how cool my living room stays in July. The U.S. Forest Service backs this up, stating that shade trees can lower surrounding air temperatures by up to 6°F, which is a big deal for your AC unit. If you’re aiming for shade, go for trees like elms or lindens, which have broad canopies but aren’t too finicky about soil. One tip I picked up from a local nursery: plant these trees at least 15 feet from your home to avoid branch damage during storms, but close enough to cast shade where you need it most.
4. Consider Existing Structures
You may be able to build a deck or install a patio near or around existing mature trees, but be sure to leave enough space to account for growth and to allow air and water to reach the roots. Be prepared for large tree roots to disturb pavers, disrupting your once-level patio bricks or stones. On the other hand, you may want to plant large trees near picnic or playground areas to provide shade for outdoor activities.
I learned this lesson the hard way when a tree I planted too close to my patio started pushing up the bricks after just a few years. If you’re working around existing trees, an arborist I spoke with suggested using permeable pavers—they let water and air reach the roots while still looking sharp. The American Society of Landscape Architects points out that leaving at least 3 feet of space around a tree’s trunk can prevent root damage when building decks or patios. For playground areas, I’d go with a tree like a honey locust—it’s got a light canopy that provides shade without dropping heavy branches that could be a safety hazard.
5. Check HOA Restrictions
Corken says that some homeowner associations keep lists of acceptable trees and shrubs for their neighborhood, so it’s important to ensure your choices are allowed. There may also be restrictions on where you can plant. For example, he says the space between the sidewalk and the curb is sometimes off-limits for planting. In newly constructed subdivisions, builders often plant a tree in the center of the yard. If it’s a large shade tree, such as a maple or oak, Corken advises moving it to the corner of the lot while the tree is small and less expensive to relocate.
HOAs can be a real pain sometimes, but they’re there for a reason. My neighbor got a hefty fine for planting a tree in a restricted zone near the curb, so I always check my HOA’s guidelines before starting a project. If you’re in a new subdivision, relocating a centrally planted tree sooner rather than later can save you hundreds—arborists charge around $200-$500 to move a small tree, according to HomeAdvisor, versus thousands for a mature one. I’d also suggest talking to your HOA board about approved tree lists; sometimes you can negotiate if you make a case for a specific species that fits the neighborhood’s vibe.
6. Get the Spacing Right
Trees are planted 10 to 20 feet away from the house to allow for growth and to keep roots from damaging the foundation and underground pipes, so the branches of mature trees don’t damage the house structure. The same general guideline applies for planting trees too close to each other. It’s not helpful when roots are competing for water and nutrients or branches are battling one another for light, so consider both canopy and root spread. “Some varieties, like oak and hickory, can handle some crowding,” Clemons says. “Others, particularly spruce, can’t.” Crowding robs them of sunlight, leading to fungal disease.
Spacing is one of those things I didn’t fully appreciate until I saw a friend’s spruce tree start dropping needles because it was too close to another tree. The International Society of Arboriculture recommends spacing trees at least half their mature canopy width apart to avoid competition. For example, if an oak’s canopy will spread 40 feet, plant it at least 20 feet from its neighbor. I’ve also found it helpful to mark out the estimated canopy spread with stakes before planting—it gives you a visual sense of how much room the tree will need as it grows. Plus, it’s a lot easier to adjust your plan before the tree’s in the ground!
7. Create a Weather-, Wind-, or Sound-Break
Homes in rural areas, open spaces, and new developments can benefit from a windbreak and sound barrier. Clemons suggests identifying where weather hits the house. “Plant on the west and south sides to help the AC unit.” Where space permits, Corken likes to use Norway spruces, which can grow 40 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Rows of arborvitaes or poplars create the same effect. Planting trees along the property’s perimeter prevents snow drifting. Typically, these are planted near a property line in the direction of prevailing winds or to block the source of unwanted sound.
Living near a busy road, I can tell you a good windbreak makes a huge difference in cutting down noise and dust. I planted a row of arborvitaes along my property line, and it’s like night and day—my backyard feels like a quiet oasis now. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service suggests that a well-designed windbreak can reduce wind speed by up to 50%, which also helps with heating costs in winter. If you’re in a windy area, consider planting in staggered rows for maximum effect—it’s a trick I picked up from a landscaping workshop, and it really works to break up strong gusts.
8. Follow the Sun
Be sure the tree you want to plant will be able to get the appropriate amount of sunshine in the desired location. Bigger, established trees or buildings may block the light. Clemons points out that crowding can lead to less branching—or worse. Trees that don’t like to be crowded can develop fungal issues. Also consider how much sunlight the tree will block from the house. During hot months, you may welcome the cooling effects of trees, but you may want to welcome that sunshine during the winter. Planting deciduous trees is a good option to help your energy costs throughout the year.
I made the mistake of planting a sun-loving tree in a spot shaded by my neighbor’s massive oak, and let’s just say it didn’t thrive. Now I always check the sun’s path across my yard before picking a spot—apps like Sun Seeker can help you map it out. Deciduous trees are my go-to because they let sunlight through in winter, keeping my heating bills in check. According to the Department of Energy, homes with well-placed deciduous trees can save up to 20% on heating and cooling combined. Just make sure to avoid planting evergreens too close to south-facing windows if you want that winter sun to warm your house.
9. Size
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